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| Photo by George Mayer |
"It is important to be chic."
1. Eyelashes Au Naturel. The resurgence of faux eyelashes in the past five years, once used by women with minimal and scant eyelashes to imitate naturally long ones (and in fashion and entertainment for the purpose of art and exaggeration) -- has grown to unnatural proportions in the real world. It is understandable if you are amongst the meagre of lash to naturally enhance what was not God-given. However, if your eyelashes are normal in length, volume and quantity, there is no reason to cause permanent damage by getting eyelash extensions. I speak from experience. For one year, I regularly had professional eyelash extensions. After every appointment I was dizzy and nauseous from the chemical glue used in the applications. Shedding faux eyelashes also became an annoyance for myself and my husband. They were everywhere. After removing them (or letting them fall out naturally) I was shocked to find my once normal lashes half their previous appearance. Two years later, they are still only 80% of what they used to be. Luckily, I stopped when I did. If you look at chic women with a truly cultivated style, rarely a faux eyelash will you find. Beauty and style icon Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy was known for not enhancing her pale eyelashes, creating a classic almost Renaissance era look. She was the quintessential representation of "less is more."
2. Nail Appeal. Along with eyelashes growing to unnatural proportions, nails have followed suit. Again, I speak from experience. I was born with thin, terribly frail fingernails. To enhance their appearance, I spent twenty-plus years having modest, natural-looking nail extensions applied/groomed every few weeks. I was convinced, years ago, that gel nails would cause no damage, as acrylic nails once did. Along with my faux lashes, I also removed my gel nails. Several years later, the nails have yet to heal. There is visible permanent damage on several. If you look around at women with "high style" and visible presence, they have natural nails. They are either simply well-manicured and buffed to a shine or painted a natural pink or classic red. Occasionally the younger women will play with a bit of unusual color. Ultra-long, decorated, embellished nails are not only costume-like, but unhealthy (they harbor bacteria and fungus, and can transmit viruses), impractical, and dangerous (especially if you have young children).
3. Le Style Classique. What I love about Parisian women, is most have such a classic, endurable style. They maintain the integrity of their wardrobes amidst ever changing flimsy trends. Not only is this good for the environment, but for their pocketbooks as well. A wardrobe full of black, gray, white, tan and navy is simple, chic and has longevity. However, it can get boring. American women tend to like a bit more color and flair. My advice is to have a wardrobe with a foundation of high quality, neutral-colored pieces, and (depending on your social life and finances) integrating a handful of pieces that have a pop of color and pattern. Again, French women have a practical, cost-effective way to do this. They will add a pair of shoes in red, blue or green to a neutral outfit. A bright colored or patterned scarf, a colorful handbag, a red sweater or a polka-dot pattered blouse, etc. are brilliant ways to add some depth and fun to a small, classic, eco-friendly wardrobe.
4. The Leather Question. When wearing leather (faux or real) you can either look painfully chic or tragically outdated. It's truly about the pieces you choose, the quality, and how you put them together. I consistently see, mostly in certain parts of Europe, women that pair black leather shorts, with black pantyhose and leather boots or booties. It's a very outdated look and tends to look inexpensive. If you're going to wear leather shorts, make it an early fall (l'automne) look, bare legged, heels and paired with a beautiful blouse or sweater. Vintage moto jackets are always in style, classic leather blazers, and long leather coats. Leather pants can be tricky because the quality of the leather (whether vegan or real) can lend to a chic expensive look or a very tacky one. The question is still up in the air, as to what is better for the environment -- real leather or vegan leather, which is essentially plastic. Skinny leather pants are still a nice look, but you should not pair tight, fitted pants with a sexy, revealing top. Go classic with the rest of the outfit. As with jean styles, everyone is wearing almost every decade of style (see next, The Clean Jean).
5. The Clean Jean. From the classic skinny jean to bootcut (1990s Jennifer Aniston), boyfriend jeans (which are a combination of mom jeans and the 1940s farmer style), to cropped flare (a favorite of style and beauty icon Aerin Lauder-Zinterhofer and French fashion editor, Emmanuelle Alt) to bell-bottom (à la Veronica Beard) -- are all in style. What is not in style, are ripped, acid-washed 1980s jeans. Some professional athletes have been sporting this style recently, but these are also the gentlemen that wear head-to-toe logoed Louis Vuitton and Gucci. It's a particular look connected to their sport, pop culture, entertainment and lifestyle. This is not what you should wear out to lunch in Saint-Germain-des-Prés with your friends. Keep your jeans clean and classic.
6. To Boot. This winter, another unfortunate style that I have seen, as of late, in several parts of Europe, (especially among young women) are the chunky, rubber-heeled tall boots. Often paired with miniskirts and the aforementioned leather shorts with black pantyhose or tights. The look, again, is not chic and quite outdated. The low heel, suede mid-calf is back in style. The leather Hermès Jumping Boot always creates a classic, chic, casual look. A favorite of The Duchess of Cambridge is the Long Tassel Boot by Penelope Chilvers. She is also a fan of the French boot brand, Le Chameau, often sporting the Vierzonard style. Stuart Weitzman's over the knee suede Tieland Boot is a personal favorite of mine. I own several pair, as the quality is amazing. They are very comfortable and easy to pack, which makes them great for traveling. Poor quality cheaply made shoes ruin an outfit. Good shoes are always worth the investment.
7. How to Jewel. From pearls to cameos in the 1950s, to large plastic earrings and rhinestone pins in the 1980s, the mass manufactured, oversized hoops of the 1990s and the emergence of "It" jewelry in the early 2000s (think David Yurman and Tiffany) -- the look today takes a turn to hand-made and personalized. The tastemakers are turning away from the big names and now to exclusive boutiques and private showings of what could be called, the new couture jewelry. Created and fitted to the taste and alignment of the individual woman. Just as the fashion houses did for the woman of substance and circumstance in the heyday of Mainbocher, personalized jeweling is now for the most chic.
8. Overdoing Sexy. A few years ago, I tackled this subject in an article with the same title. It saddens me that young women today, especially, have very few truly elegant role models in entertainment and fashion to be inspired by. Sixty to Seventy years ago, that was not the case. At present, social media is overrun by too many playing the sex card for attention (and money), but it's the wrong sort of attention and there are internal consequences. Being lusted after and being valued are different things and overdoing sexy is the opposite of chic. "There is a real vulgarity in the way women dress at the moment. They show off too much and try too hard. They don't understand where the line is between sexy and vulgar. I know where that line is." - Roberto Cavalli
9. The Balanced Visage. One of my favorite little books is called, Better Than Beauty, A Guide to Charm. It was originally published in 1938. In chapter one of the book, the author gives advice on makeup that rings true today. "Your makeup must become a part of you. If it is so off-key, if it is so startling that is dazzles, or so underdone that is causes spectators to worry over your health, it is not part of you. Freakish eyebrows (and eyelashes!), gooey eyelids, too-pale cheeks, and completely untouched-by-beauty-aids faces are all unnatural. "What! No makeup at all unnatural?" For an urban woman under sixty, yes! For though that woman may be as nature made her, she will look colorless among her brightened up sisters." I try to always create a balanced makeup look that works for my particular features. At 46 years old, I know that dark lips age you, so I play up my eyes more and highlight my cheeks for a more youthful appearance. My lips are naturally puffy as well, so I don't need to gloss them up or overaccentuate that feature. I do the opposite and go towards a more natural-looking lip.
10. Too Much Puff. The past several seasons, from spring, summer to fall, have had us in the throes of passion for a puffed sleeve (which reemerged from the 1930s and even further back, the Renaissance). The French and Spanish have been restrained in this style, the Italians a bit more exuberant, and the American women have lost control. I have seen styles of such extremity where ladies going out to dinner look like running backs for the Carolina Panthers. With this style, they have added bright colors and patterns that could rival any English grandmother's floral couch from the 1960s. A little puff is still in style, too much is not. Balance of proportion, color and fit, is key to elegance.
